Safety lines should be tied and secured with manila rope.Secure chicken ladders or cleats at the top for adequate footing.Do not work on wet or snow covered roofs, or on a brittle roof surface.Be sure the roof is clear of debris and water.Leave only enough slack so you can work comfortably in one area, and adjust the slack as you work on other sections of the roof. Wear a safety belt or harness secured to a substantial chimney or to a window on the opposite side of the house.Wear rubber-soled shoes that have non-slip or grid type tread (preferably high top sneakers for good ankle support.TAKE CARE TO USE A FLASHING MATERIAL COMPATIBLE WITH THE REST OF THE ROOF SYSTEM. RAINWATER RUNOFF FROM COPPER FLASHING WILL CORRODE BOTH GALVANIZED SHEET METAL AND STAINLESS STEEL THROUGH GALVANIC ACTION. Copper, with copper nails, galvanized sheet metal with hot-dipped galvanized nails, or terne-coated stainless steel with stainless steel nails are the primary materials used for flashing.ĬAUTION: THE DIFFERENT METALS SHOULD NOT BE MIXED. Flashing is an integral part of a roofing system and protects against water infiltration at roof hips and valleys penetrations such as chimneys where roofing meets a vertical surface such as a parapet or at a porch roof or at drip edges.Ĭ. This procedure includes guidance on repairing chimney flashing that is missing, deteriorated or damaged.ī. Last edited by Mark Parlee 09-19-2011 at 06:11 AM.Repairing Chimney Flashing Procedure code: 762002S Source: Hspg Prepared For Nps - Sero Division: Thermal and Moisture Protection Section: Sheet Metal Flashing And Trim Last Modified: PART 1-GENERAL 1.01 SUMMARYĪ. Is this in the scope of your work to specify the right manner in which to make corrections and repairs.
![flash a chimney flash a chimney](https://cdn-fastly.hometalk.com/media/2018/01/30/4629369/q-new-construction-home-has-no-flashing-on-chimney.jpg)
The best way to remediate this joint is to remove the vinyl, correct the joint and replace the siding. The metal would have flashed and sealed the joint.
![flash a chimney flash a chimney](https://www.priddyclean.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/image3.jpg)
The siding J would have been applied over this metal and it. This would have been put over the old siding and sealed onto the face of the brick. From the pictures it looks as if this is a side over.Īs Ross suggested a corner trim could have been installed. This also is why it is a critical step to make sure the envelope is sealed with the WRB before any siding is applied. This is why there are drain holes at the bottom of the laps, to let it back out. On a vinyl job moisture gains access to the back side of the vinyl at all sorts of points. Raymond suggested using backer rod and sealant at the brick to the J.This will keep wind blown moisture from penetrating the face of the joint but that is all. I do this type of work and even though cases are similar they are different in the details.Īnswer to number two applies two this one as well. this trim would have a sealant joint between it and the brick.īetter not to recommend any details for this unless you are a contractor that has experience in this type of correction work. When the siding was installed a trim board sufficient in depth is installed. This would have been done by turning the building paper from the wall behind the brick onto the wall that has siding on it. This joint detail should have been handled at original construction. It has been almost a month since you originally posted this and then let it go so I assume you have moved on.įor future reference I will answer your pointsĪny best practice for this joint is past. I frequently see the sheathing and or housewrap where siding butts into a chimney.ġ) What is the generally recognized best practice for flashing/sealing this joint ?Ģ) Aside from tearing off the siding and correcting it from the beginning, what do you recommend as a solution when you see the underlying structure at this joint?ģ) Anybody have any diagrams of this detail they include in their reports they care to share?